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A graphgan is a crocheted blanket that makes a picture out of colored stitches — a bit like a photo built from tiny squares of yarn.

In Graphgan Studio, every square on the chart is one stitch in one color, so the pattern reads the way crocheters actually work.

Pick how you want to start: upload a photo, or open a blank chart and choose how many stitches wide and tall it should be.

From there you can tweak the chart, save it, print it, or open the Reader to follow it row by row while you crochet.

Photos with one clear subject, good lighting, and a simple background make the prettiest charts.

Busy photos can still work — try cropping in closer, making the blanket a little bigger, or allowing a few more colors so the important details survive.

No. There's nothing to sign up for.

Your projects are saved right in your web browser, on this device. Export any pattern you really care about — if you switch devices or clear your browser's saved data, the projects here won't come along.

Head to the Contact page and send a message — questions, bugs, and ideas are all welcome.

You can also follow Graphgan Studio on Facebook (there's a link in the footer) for updates.

For most photo blankets, Single Crochet is the best pick — single crochet stitches are nearly square, so the picture stays truest to your photo.

There are several others to suit your style: Half-Double and Mini Bean work up quickly and soft; Tunisian gives a dense, woven look; Block and Bobble make chunky, textured squares; and C2C and Mini C2C are worked corner-to-corner on the diagonal — faster, but a little chunkier.

Custom Gauge is for when you've already crocheted a swatch and know your own stitches per inch. You can switch methods anytime, and the chart along with the size and yarn estimates update to match.

It lets you type in your own stitches per inch and rows per inch, measured from a swatch you crocheted.

Since everyone's tension is different, your own numbers give a much better size estimate than the averages.

It's an honest estimate, not a promise — we'll always label it that way.

It gets much closer when you measure a swatch and enter your real gauge. Tension, yarn, hook size, borders, and blocking all nudge the final size.

Yes — especially before a big blanket. A 4 by 4 inch square in your chosen yarn and hook tells you exactly how you crochet.

Five minutes of swatching can save you from a blanket that comes out two feet bigger than planned.

Gentle heads-ups that appear when a pattern looks too small to show the picture, too big to be practical, or out of step with the blanket size you asked for.

They're friendly advice, not a roadblock — you always stay in control.

Open the Yarn & Size panel. Pick your yarn weight (like worsted or DK), then enter how many yards are in one skein — it's printed on the yarn label.

You'll get a rough skein count for every color in your chart. Treat it as a shopping guide, not gospel — tension and how you handle your yarn ends will shift the real number a bit.

It's a calm, focused view for when you're actually crocheting — one row at a time, no editing buttons in your way.

It always shows your current row, which direction you're working, and how far you've come.

No. Your spot is saved automatically as you go.

Come back tomorrow (or next month) and the Reader picks up right where you left off.

In graphgan crochet you usually work one row left to right, the next right to left, back and forth.

The Reader shows you which way the current row goes, so you never have to stop and figure it out mid-stitch.

For corner-to-corner projects, the Reader walks you through diagonals instead of rows. The counter at the top shows which diagonal you're on and how many stitches it has — diagonals start short, grow, then shrink again.

You can switch between row-by-row and C2C anytime from the menu (☰). Switching starts you back at the beginning, so pick your method before you pick up your hook.

Yes — it's made for exactly that. Big Previous, Done, and Next buttons sit at the bottom where your thumb already is, and you can tuck them away with the Hide tab when you want more chart on screen.

Slide the chart around with one finger if it's bigger than your screen, or tap any stitch to jump there. The menu (☰) has everything else: jumping to a row, switching methods, dark mode, and getting back to your projects.

Yes. Open the menu (☰) and choose Dark under Appearance. It remembers your choice for next time.

Right in your web browser, on the device you're using.

They don't travel between devices yet — so if you start a chart on your computer, it won't appear on your phone. Export a copy of anything you'd hate to lose.

A printable PDF of the chart, a picture file (PNG), written row-by-row instructions, and a spreadsheet listing every row.

The written instructions match the Reader exactly — same row directions, same color groupings — so the paper version and the app always agree.

Yes — export it and send the file to anyone, any way you like.

There's no built-in sharing or gallery in the app just yet.

Yes. Open Edit in the toolbar, pick a color, and click any square on the chart to repaint it.

The eyedropper picks up a color already on your chart so you can match it exactly. The fill bucket recolors a whole connected area in one click. The eraser clears squares back to blank.

In the Edit panel, every color in your chart has its own row showing its swatch, symbol, and how many stitches use it. Click the swatch to choose a different shade.

Merge combines two nearly-identical colors into one — fewer yarn changes for you. Trim snips off any empty rows or columns around the edges.

It's an optional control in the Color count card (for photo charts) that tidies tiny color specks — the lone 1–2 stitch pops that are fiddly to crochet and barely show in the finished blanket.

Leave it Off to keep your chart exactly as generated, or choose Light or Strong to merge those little islands into the color around them. Off is the default, so nothing changes unless you ask.

Stamp copies a rectangle of stitches so you can paste it elsewhere on the chart — perfect for repeating a flower, a border, or anything symmetrical.

You can flip the copy sideways or upside down before placing it.

Use the Undo and Redo buttons in the toolbar — every paint stroke, color change, and stamp counts as one step, so you can walk back as far as you need.

On a computer, the usual keyboard shortcuts work too.

Check two things: the photo should be a JPG, PNG, or WebP file, and under 20 MB.

If it still won't go, make sure the photo opens normally on your device — a damaged file can't be read.

The usual fixes: allow a few more colors, make the blanket size a bit bigger, crop in closer on your subject, or try a photo with clearer contrast.

If the trouble is scattered specks of color, turn on Crochet Cleanup (in the Color count card) to merge those tiny islands into the colors around them.

A crochet chart has far fewer squares than a photo has detail, so a little simplifying is always part of the craft — that's what gives graphgans their charm.

Check your gauge first — make sure your stitches per inch and rows per inch are entered, and in the right units.

If you haven't entered a gauge, the app uses averages and says so. Averages are a fine starting point, but your own swatch numbers are what make the estimate trustworthy.